Blend half of the beans with a splash of water (about 3 tbsp). Set aside. Cover the base of a heavy-based saucepan with extra virgin olive oil. Add the onion, carrots and celery, with a pinch of salt. Stir so everything is glistening in oil and set over a medium-low heat. Cook with the lid ajar for 15–20 minutes until soft and translucent, stirring every so often. Add the garlic and chilli, if using, and stir for a minute or so to avoid burning.

Add the cavolo nero, cabbage, potato, tomato purée, beans (and bean purée). Pour in the measured water and add 1–2 tsp salt. Stir, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the bay leaves and rest the rosemary on top (so it flavours without the needles getting in the soup). Leave to cook for around 30 minutes, until the vegetables are soft.

Discard the rosemary and add the bread. Stir so that it’s covered in the soup and leave to cook for a further 10 minutes. You should have a thick mush with all the ingredients melding together. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Leave to cool and sit for a few hours, preferably overnight. If leaving longer than 8 hours or so, refrigerate until ready to use.

When you’re ready to eat, preheat the oven to 190°C fan and reheat the ribollita gently on the hob, adding a splash of water if necessary. Pour into an ovenproof dish, sprinkle the cheese and breadcrumbs on top and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Bake for around 25 minutes, then switch to a preheated grill for another 5 minutes or so, until the top is golden and bubbling. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for a few hours, preferably overnight, in which case refrigerate until ready to use.