1 In a small bowl, dissolve the yeast in the water with the sugar; set aside for a few minutes, until the mixture starts to bubble.

2 In a mixing bowl, combine the flour and salt. Make a well in the center and add the olive oil, egg, and yeast-­water mixture. Using a pastry scraper or a fork, break up the egg, then combine all the ingredients until you have a dough that is soft and slightly sticky but not wet, adding a little more flour or water as necessary (be careful to add just a little of either of these at a time).

3 Rub a little olive oil onto your hands and your work surface, turn out the dough, and knead for 3 to 4 minutes, until velvety. I like to use a kneading technique I learned at the Cordon Bleu Hold the dough by one side, lift it high off the board, and slam the other end down on the work surface, without letting go; this will stretch the dough. Then fold it from the bottom up (folding the dough in your hand over the dough on the board), press it down very lightly, and grab the dough from the right side if you are right-handed, or from the left side if you are left-handed, giving it a quarter turn toward yourself. Repeat the process until the dough feels smooth and bouncy. When you press it with your finger, it should spring back. If the dough is too sticky to knead, add a little more oil to the work surface and your hand; if it remains impossibly sticky, sprinkle with a little more flour. A plastic pastry scraper is useful for scraping up any dough that has stuck to the work surface.

4 Shape the dough into a ball by cupping both hands and squeezing the base as you turn it a few times on your work surface. Transfer it to a bowl, cover with a plate or plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm place to rise for at least 45 minutes, until doubled in size. At this stage, you can refrigerate the dough, covered, for up to 2 days; remove it 30 minutes before proceeding with your chosen recipe.