Combine the water and wild garlic (ramps) vinegar in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and gradually add the butter, whisking continuously, as though making a mayonnaise.
Stir in the Madras curry powder and let infuse for at least 30 minutes. Season to taste with fine salt. Keep the sauce warm, at 50°C (122°F), until ready to serve.
Cabbage
Remove the thickest outer leaves, then cut the cabbage in half. Heat the grapeseed oil and butter in a wide sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter is foaming, place the cabbage halves, cut side down, in the pan. Add the thyme and bay leaves, reduce the heat,and leave to caramelize gently over low heat for about 45 minutes. Turn the cabbage halves over and cook on the other side for 5 minutes.
Preparation
Cut the limequats into very thin slices. Whip the fromage frais or Greek yogurt until smooth and creamy.
Prepare the chive oil:
put the olive oil and chives in a blender and blend at high speed until fully combined, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve (strainer).
Just before serving
Drain the cabbage and cut each cabbage half into three equal parts. Season with fleur de sel and slide five or six limequat slices between the leaves of each piece of cabbage.
Presentation
Place one cabbage wedge in the centre of each plate and add a spoonful of curry butter, a few drops of chive oil, a quenelle of whipped fromage frais and a good pinch of sauerkraut salt.