We wandered in one afternoon looking for a good glass of wine and ended up staying for lunch. It has that comfortable neighborhood feel—easy to walk into but clearly serious about what it does.

The wine list stands out right away. It focuses on natural and low-intervention bottles, with plenty of French producers and a thoughtful section highlighting women winemakers. It feels genuine and well chosen, the kind of list built by people who actually drink what they pour. When we visited, a French winemaker was sitting at the next table, which says a lot about the kind of crowd it attracts.