The shrimp curry arrives, split down the shell, the meat tender and soaking up a sauce so rich and fragrant you’ll want to drink it. A halibut fillet in a sharp, tangy cilantro lime sauce might be the best piece of fish we’ve had in London this year. Then there’s the smoky pad phet eggplant, a watermelon and strawberry salad that shouldn’t work but absolutely does, and another salad that captures peak summer in a single bite. And that’s before we even get to the fire-driven kitchen, the cocktails, and the one thing that will have you ditching your old Thai favorite for good.