When we arrived at Stable Wines, just down the street from our house in Islington, we stood across the street staring at the door, completely confused. Are we in the right place? That can’t be it. The space once belonged to Borough Wines, and from the outside it still has that small, tidy-shop vibe. A long paper lantern hangs in the window, which makes it look more like a tiny Japanese restaurant or sake bar than London’s newest natural-wine hideout. If you didn’t know what awaits downstairs, you would walk right past it or perhaps stop in to buy a bottle of wine to take home for dinner.
The upstairs shop is only the bait. Slip inside, move past the shelves, and follow the dark passageway. That is when you understand why people will be whispering about Stable Wines. Brought to life by the Goodbye Horses team, this place is cozy, dim, and built to feel exclusive, not pretentious. On opening night the room was filled with industry friends in the know: winemakers, wine buyers, and restaurant owners. No sign, no announcement, and one Instagram post. If someone didn’t tip you off, you were not getting in.
We came with our friends Mark and Dasha, who make U’lippu organic olive oil on their Etna estate, and the team from Portis Pizza, London’s new Roman al taglio pizza-by-the-slice spot. Together we headed straight for Table 25, the prime cave at the back next to the tall paper lantern. It is the most private spot in the cellar, a concrete arch that feels like its own little world. One tip: don’t wear delicate sweaters. The cement walls look great but love to grab knitwear.
The cellar is laid out in four arches. Three hold large cement tables for six to ten, perfect for a group, and these arches are available by reservation only. Everything else, including the vault room and the communal table, is walk in only (right now). One arch is a seating nook with no table. The communal table is filled with candles and usually full of people settling in for the night.
It is all natural wines here, and Wine Director Nathalie Nelles runs the program with ease. You can geek out with her on volcanic soils and micro-producers, or you can describe the rough shape of what you like. The team will happily pull something from the walls that fits your taste.
Chef Jack Coggins, also from Goodbye Horses, keeps the menu tight. Raw Scottish langoustines, tuna belly on beds of crispy fried potatoes that quickly became a table favorite, a golden whole deep fried Mont d’Or, and the cheese toastie the team is known for. The chocolate mousse with olive oil arrived with small elegant spoons that reminded us of the ones at The Dreamery, their ice cream and wine shop nearby.
Hand-thrown cement arches, illustrated paper lanterns by the Goodbye Horses artist, Sicilian lights, and candlelit tables make the whole room glow. It feels warm, intimate, and a little chaotic in the best way. They will open only a few days a week for lunch and dinner, which fits the whole feeling. Limited, special, and slightly underground. The wine shop upstairs is open every day.
Stable Wines is the kind of place you discover once and then spend the rest of the year trying to get back into. Go now while that tiny upstairs shop still fools people.
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