It has been a long time since a restaurant impressed us so much that we made plans to return while still sitting at the table. Tom Geoffrey’s Barang Street Kitchen is that kind of place.
Barang is currently in residence on the upper floor of The Globe Tavern. We climbed the same narrow staircase used for the exterior shots of Bridget Jones’s flat before stepping into the dining room. If Geoffrey were to take over the space permanently, there would be lines out the door seven days a week, much like neighboring Agora and his former restaurant Kiln. A permanent location is in the works, which makes the March 31 closure date slightly less painful.
Geoffrey spent nearly a decade studying the cuisine of Cambodia, and Barang infuses those bold flavors into a distinct Southeast Asian and British fusion.
The short cocktail list includes one gin-based, one rum-based, and one tequila-based option, which ensures that each is executed with precision. It was difficult to pick a favorite. The Night Market was smoky, grassy, and herbal while still intensely refreshing. The Bassac Lane impressed with bright flavors and avoided the cloying sweetness of so many tropical rum punches.
In the traditional style of Cambodian cooking, dishes are meant for sharing. The team suggests two to three dishes per person, with portions increasing in size as you move down the menu. It was hard to choose a standout. The raw Cornish bluefin tuna with compressed melon, coconut, and lime was our four-year-old son’s favorite. He finished the coconut and lime oil with a spoon. The burnt tomato relish served with the grilled lamb chops had my husband scraping the last bits off the plate.
We had been eyeing the Orkney diver scallop, grilled directly on binchotan coals, on Instagram before our visit. It did not disappoint. This version came finished with tamarind brown butter, pickled apples, daikon, and crackling pig ear.
The laab of venison, seared in pork fat and seasoned with Khmer spices and wild pepper leaves, was another highlight. Its richness was balanced by a citrus salad with bitter leaves and shrimp floss. The venison in particular shows how Geoffrey blends the bold, nuanced flavors of Cambodian cuisine with British ingredients, especially when certain Southeast Asian products are cost-prohibitive or difficult to source.
It was hard to imagine what the deep-fried turmeric sea bream would look like, but what arrived was striking. The fish is scored and shaped into a circle before frying, then presented with herbs, radicchio leaves, and a sweet-tangy sauce. Guests build their own hand rolls using the leaves and sauce.
Dessert was just as thoughtful. A house-made charred pineapple and galangal sorbet was served alongside a cocktail of cognac, coffee, condensed milk, and cardamom. It was a warm and refined twist on Baileys.
We cannot wait to visit the permanent Barang and plan to return at least once more before this residency closes. Menu changes are already planned for this week, so there is likely something new to try. The new restaurant will feature a customised kitchen designed by Geoffrey, including an expanded grill area for greater control over the live-fire cooking. We would also welcome a Southeast Asian cookbook from Geoffrey to inspire our home cooking.
Barang is located in Borough Market, and the current residency runs through March 31, 2026.
Note: Barang provided support for the reporting of this story.