Recipe and photo by Cat Bude
We cook a lot of mussels, especially in the summer. They’re fast, affordable, and always feel like more effort than they are. Over the years we’ve made them every way you can think of—classic French moules marinières, mussels with garlic and cream, spicy tomato mussels, even grilled mussels at our favorite beach club in the south of France.
But this version, from French Kitchen Lessons by Cat Bude, immediately stood out. It’s the kind of simple, confident cooking we love: minimal ingredients, big flavor, and a clear sense of place. The author shares a short personal story about the seasonal arrival of local Normandy mussels—specifically the ones from Utah Beach, which have a short harvest window and an almost cult-like following among chefs and locals.
If you’ve never made mussels at home, this is a great place to start. If you already do, this version is worth adding to your rotation.
“Every summer we eagerly await the arrival of local Normandy mussels. Although we enjoy a long season with mussels harvested from varying locations, there is a small window, where they are harvested not far from us in the area of the D-Day beaches. One beach, in particular, called Utah Beach boasts some of the best mussels we have ever tasted. The summer we discovered them, we ate mussels five times over a period of two weeks, during the time when they were available. The problem is, they are also recognized for their superiority by chefs and foodies, so the competition is rough. You have to be very good friends with your fishmonger to get the secret text message, “Les moules sont arrivées!” I can’t take credit for this dish, as I have rarely made it. I have, however, been the sous chef for it many times. It’s a recipe from my father-in-law’s repertoire and hence is always cooked by his son, while I stand close by, holding a glass of wine—exactly as he would have wanted it.”
Mussels with Pernod Cream Sauce
Ingredients
- 6 3/4 pounds (3 kg) mussels
- 2 1/2 tablespoons butter
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 3 medium shallots, finely diced
- 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
- several sprigs of fresh thyme
- 2 tablespoons Pernod or any anise-flavored liqueur
- ½ bottle dry white wine
- 2 cups (480 ml) heavy cream
- baguette and butter, for serving
Instructions
- Rinse and clean the mussels, removing small bits of seaweed or debris from the shells. Fresh mussels should be tightly closed and smell of the sea, so be sure to discard any that are open or cracked.
- In a very large pot over medium heat, melt the butter with the oil, add the shallots, and cook until tender. Add the herbes de Provence and thyme, then add the Pernod and deglaze the pan. Increase the heat to high and add the white wine. Bring the liquid to a full rolling boil, then add the mussels and cover. Wait for 3 minutes and then shake the pot from side to side. Remove the cover and turn the mussels around in the pot with a slotted spoon, pulling the open ones to the top. Cover again and cook for 3 more minutes.
- Mussels usually take 5 to 8 minutes in total to cook. Small ones will cook very quickly and if overcooked will have a mealy texture. Once the majority are opened, you can remove the cooked mussels with a slotted spoon and place them in a large serving bowl. Be sure to discard any mussels that do not open.
- Add the cream to the cooking broth and reduce for about 5 minutes or until the sauce is creamy and sticks to the back of a spoon. Ladle the hot creamy sauce over the mussels and then pour the rest into a small pitcher to serve table side or to reheat for second courses. Always serve with plenty of fresh baguette to soak up the delicious sauce and plenty of napkins!
Excerpted with permission from French Kitchen Lessons: Recipes & Stories from Normandy’s Rabbit Hill Farm by: Cat Bude published by Hardie Grant Books, October 2024, RRP $40.00 Hardcover.