When we lived in Chicago, ramps were treated with a reverence that now seems almost comical. Every spring, once the city got its first supply of ramps, special ramp focused menus start appearing. Ramps were the talk of the culinary community for the few weeks they were in season. We actually once heard a man waxing eloquent about the ramps at Naha, which were “carefully brushed with oil before being gently charred over a charcoal grill.” It was like an episode of Frasier. We’ve been seeing the same scenes play out in New York on Instagram the past few weeks and can’t help but laugh. Perhaps the urban obsession with ramps stems from one simple fact - they don’t grow in cities. You must go foraging for ramps in the countryside.