Amalfi Coast Black Book

by TheTasteEdit

 

We’ve put together the below list of Amalfi Coast recommendations with an eye toward keeping our readers away from crowds and tourist traps. Our key piece of advice would be to carefully select hotels with private beach clubs or pools and take advantage of the seclusion they offer during the day. If you want to try local restaurants, do so later at night, after the last ferries leave, so you can enjoy the town without day-trippers.

 

shot of Positano italy from the ferries

The Amalfi Coast has become too touristy for us in recent years, to the point that it’s difficult for us to recommend anyone spend their valuable time getting to or staying here. What started as an elite destination for the jet-set has become plagued with day-trippers from cruise ships and tour buses, overpriced and underwhelming restaurants, and shops in Positano selling fake Hermes sandals. In addition, the hotel prices along the coast are constantly increasing.

On the other hand, we understand that people still want to go and the social media photos of its stunning landscapes and sparkling water make it nearly irresistible.

 

How to get to the Amalfi Coast with the Least Amount of Stress

It’s one of the most beautiful beach destinations in Italy, but it’s not the easiest to get to. That’s why after several trips and requests, we’re sharing with you our recommendations on how to get to the Amalfi Coast with the least amount of stress. Continue Reading

 

What’s the Best Time to Visit the Amalfi Coast

If you’re planning a vacation or honeymoon to this iconic Italian summer destination, it’s important to consider the best time to plan your vacation. This is true for any destination, but particularly important for the Amalfi Coast because many hotels and restaurants close for the off-season, and you’ll want to consider the water temperature, and who your fellow travelers will be. Continue Reading

 

Tips for a Smoother Ride on Amalfi Coast Ferries

What’s great about the transportation on the Amalfi Coast is that many of the major towns are connected by ferries, but you often need to be in a car to get to hotels and other destinations. Not everyone is prepared to drive themselves on the winding coastal roads, which gives rise to a whole industry of usurious-priced car services. However, you can easily get between Napoli, Sorrento, Capri, Salerno, Positano, Amalfi, and Ischia relatively affordably by boat — and admire the stunning scenery while you’re at it. There are some things to note to make your experience a little smoother when planning your ferry trip. Continue Reading

 

Where to Stay:

Borgo Santandrea, Amalfi
Our top hotel on the Amalfi Coast. 

    • Newest hotel on the coast
    • Gorgeous design inspired by the original building and local artisans
    • Fabulous food
    • Pool, beach (small pebbles), and beach club
    • Better accessibility than many locations on the coast (elevators service every floor and the beach)
    • Best service we’ve encountered on the Amalfi Coast
    • Free transportation to Amalfi although we don’t recommend going there during the day – spend your time at the private beach instead 
    • Adult-only property, children eight and over are welcome
    • See more details from our stay here.

 

 

Il San Pietro di Positano

 

 

Casa Angelina, Praiano

    • Newer, minimalist modern hotel 
    • One Fire beach club is accessible below (must take stairs)
    • Free shuttle to Positano although we don’t recommend going there during the day – spend your time at One Fire beach or by the hotel’s pool
    • Famous lemon pergola
    • Adult-only property, children over the age of 12 are welcome
    • See more details from our stay here.

 

 

Le Sirenuse, Positano

    • High price tag and questionable value 
    • Located in the center of Positano, be aware that you will need to fight crowds to leave the hotel during the daytime 
    • Well known by Instagramers and has fantastic views
    • Adult-only property, children six and over are welcome
    • See more details from our visit here.

 

 

Capri Palace Jumeirah, Capri

 

Double infinity pool at Hotel Caesar Augustus Capri Italy, The Taste Edit

Caesar Augustus, Capri

  • A few minutes walk from downtown Anacapri
  • Perched on a cliff side of Capri 
  • Infinity pool with a view of Naples and the Port de Capri
  • Grows their own vegetables
  • Adult-only property, children over the age of 12 are welcome
  • See more details from our stay here.

 

 

Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa, Ischia

    • Renovated hotel was all the rage a few years ago, although the Instagram buzz surrounding the place seems to be dying down 
    • Great beach club restaurant and private cove
    • When we stayed, service was not one-hundred percent on par since they had just opened
    • Children are welcome
    • See more details from our stay here.

 

 

 

San Montano Resort & Spa, Ischia

 

 

The terraces of the best hotel in Ravello, Palazzo Avino in Ravello, The Taste Edit

Palazzo Avino, Ravello

  • Family-run pink palace in Ravello
  • Lobster and martini bar is magical 
  • Beach club with transportation, again we suggest spending the day at private beaches wherever possible 
  • Fantastic views
  • Children are welcome
  • See more details from our stay here.

 

Where to Eat and Drink

 

POSITANO & PRAIANO

La Brache, Via Gennaro Capriglione, 146, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy

  • Family-run restaurant
  • Pizza, pasta, fresh seafood
  • Be sure to try the lemon cake (if they have it)

Zass, Via Laurito, 2, 84017 Positano SA, Italy

  • One Michelin Star restaurant located at Il San Pietro dei Positano
  • Offers an interesting wine list
  • A do not miss for fine dining

Un Piano Nel Cielo, Via Gennaro Capriglione, 147, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy

  • Fine dining restaurant at Casa Angelina
  • Top floor of the restaurant overlooking Positano

Seascape, Via Gennaro Capriglione, 147, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy

  • Casa Angelina’s casual all-day restaurant

Ristorante Max, Piazza dei Mulini, 22, 84017 Positano SA, Italy

  • Seafood and pasta restaurant that’s not too touristy in Positano
  • Ask to sit in the garden for dinner

La Sponda

  • Fine dining restaurant at Le Sirenuse
  • Day time menu is casual and served on the patio

Il Pirata, Via Marina di Praia, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy

  • Restaurant is cut into the rock side with a dock into the sea
  • Request a table by the water
  • Fresh seafood restaurant
  • Try the croquettes

Trattoria da Armandino, Via Marina di Praia, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy

  • Will pick you up by boat
  • Seafood and pasta

One Fire Beach, Via Gavitella, 1, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy

  • Beach club located below Casa Angelina
  • You need to take a few hundred steps down to the beach club
  • Simple food like prosciutto and melon, spritz, not a full fledge beach club menu

L’alternativa Snack Bar (by the pier), 84017 Positano, Province of Salerno, Italy*
Da Adolfo, Via Laurito, 40, 84017 Positano SA, Italy (will pick you up by boat)*
La Tagliata, Via Tagliata, 32B, 84017 Positano SA, Italy*
La Strada, Via Gennaro Capriglione, 178, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy*
La Moressa, P.zza Moressa, 1, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy*
Café Mirante, Via Masa, 55, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy*

Note: It’s very difficult to find good food in Positano. 

 

 

AMALFI

La Tonnarella, Via Marina di Conca, 5, 84010 Conca dei Marini SA, Italy

  • One of our favorite restaurants (and Jackie Kennedy’s) on the Amalfi Coast
  • Will pick you up by boat from Amalfi or possibly your hotel
  • Don’t miss the baby squid or salt and pepper shrimp

Alici Restaurant, Via Giovanni Augustariccio, 33, 84011 Amalfi SA, Italy

  • Casual restaurant at Borgo Santandrea
  • Try the anchovies

Lido Azzurro, Via Lungomare dei Cavalieri, 5, 84011 Amalfi SA, Italy

  • Fish restaurant located on the water just a few minute walk outside of downtown Amalfi
  • Not the best food, but it’s okay if you need something in Amalfi

 

Stay at Hotel Caesar Augustus, one of the best luxury hotels in Capri

CAPRI

Agriturismo del Sole, Via Migliara, 15, 80071 Anacapri NA, Italy

  • Restaurant located on a farm hotel property
  • They will pick you up from your hotel by request
  • No menu to choose from, they will verbally tell you the menu
  • Interesting wines

La Terrazza di Lucullo, Via Giuseppe Orlandi, 4, 80071 Anacapri NA, Italy

Le Arcate Ristorante, Viale T. De Tommaso, 24, 80071 Anacapri NA, Italy

  • Very local and simple restaurant
  • Close to downtown Anacapri

Pizzeria Barbarossa, Piazza dela Vittoria, 5, 80071 Anacapri NA, Italy

  • Very local pizza restaurant
  • Located above the taxi stand in the center of Anacapri

Lo Scoglio Delle Sirene Beach Club, Via Mulo, 77, 80073 Capri NA, Italy

  • Our favorite beach club and restaurant in Capri
  • More local than the now too-popular La Fontellina
  • Great view of the Faraglioni
  • Order the lobster pasta

Da Gelsomina, Via Migliara, 72, 80071 Anacapri NA, Italy

  • They will pick you up from your hotel by request
  • Located at the end of Capri next to a great overview a few steps away

La Fontellina Beach Club, Via dei Faraglioni, 2, 80073 Capri NA, Italy

  • Beach club and restaurant made popular by Instagram
  • Located next to the Faraglioni (they offer a paid-for boat ride to Marina Piccola where you can take a taxi – be sure to have cash for this)
  • You must take a boat to get here or walk down a ton of stairs

La Zagara, Via Giuseppe Orlandi, 180, 80071 Anacapri NA, Italy

  • Restaurant is set under a garden of lemon trees
  • Recently had a new chef from a Michelin star restaurant

Lido del Faro, Str. Faro di Carena, 80071 Anacapri NA, Italy*

  • Beach club, restaurant, and saltwater pool

 

ISCHIA

Le Stufe Osteria, Corso Angelo Rizzoli, Circumvallazione 92, 210, 80076 Lacco Ameno NA, Italy

  • Great view on the terrace
  • Try the gnocchi with clams and cockles

Trattoria Casa Colonica al Negombo, Via S. Montano, 55, 80076 Lacco Ameno NA, Italy

  • Was a personal recommendation from Angela Missoni
  • Located inside the Negombo beach club, but you can eat there without going to the club
  • Ask Jack, the owner, what he suggests and choose that

Dani Maison, Via Montetignuso, 4, 80077 Ischia NA, Italy

  • Two Michelin star restaurant set in the family home of the chef
  • Deserves three stars, while staying unfussy

Ristorante Delfino, Corso Angelo Rizzoli 106, 80076 Lacco Ameno, Ischia, Italy

  • Casual seafood restaurant
  • Ask what’s fresh that day and order it
  • Love the fritto misto

Ristorante Da Coco, Ponte Aragonese, 1, 80077 Ischia NA, Italy

  • Great view of the castle, Castello Aragonese
  • Try the wine and peaches while you decide on your order

Bar Calise, Corso Luigi Manzi, 80074 Casamicciola Terme NA, Italy

  • Old-school bar where you can get a cocktail, gelato, or pastries
  • There’s a smaller second location next to Ischia’s port

 

RAVELLO

Trattoria Pizzeria Cumpa’ Cosimo, Via Roma, 44, 84010 Ravello SA, Italy

  • Rustic traditional pasta-focused restaurant
  • Owner Netta Bottone is a character
  • Popular with celebrities

Lobster & Martini Bar, Palazzo Avino, Via S. Giovanni del Toro, 28, 84010 Ravello SA, Italy

  • Casual restaurant and bar at Palazzo Avino
  • Has over 100 different martinis

Rossellinis Restaurant,  Via S. Giovanni del Toro, 28, 84010 Ravello SA, Italy

Mamma Agata, Via S. Cosma, 9, 84010 Ravello SA, Italy,

  • Cooking school experience
  • You’ll have breakfast and a full lunch, you won’t want dinner

 

*We haven’t been to this location, but it has been recommended to us.

 

Lobster pasta at Lo Scoglio delle Sirine

 

Tips for Ordering the Catch of the Day at Italian Restaurants

taly gets a bad reputation from tourists who feel they’ve been cheated in one way or another. We’re not too sympathetic to these feelings as half the time they are the result of ignorance (it’s normal to be charged a cover charge per person if you sit down and it’s normal to have to ask for free tap water instead of bottled) or poor choices (all of the restaurants on busy piazzas offering the most overpriced and poor quality food in town — with a view).
Continue Reading

 

 

Where to Buy Ceramics

Ceramiche Mennella, Via Salvatore Girardi, 47, 80074 Casamicciola Terme NA, Ischia, Italy

Lucio Liguori Ceramiche, Via San Vito, 1, 84019 Raito SA, Italy (modern ceramics used at Borgo Santandrea)

Ceramiche d’Arte Pascal Ravello, Via Roma, 22, 84010 Ravello SA, Italy

City of Vietri is known for traditional ceramics

 

Check back for more updates on the Amalfi Coast Black Book. Last updated 20 July, 2022.

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