Words and photo by Alec Morris.
Broccoli and potato is a reminder for me of how powerful smells can be in holding and evoking memories. It’s one of those beloved smells of my childhood, like the cool, swirling mix of fragrances that I remember hitting my face as I swatted my way through the plastic curtains of the wholefoods shop. Or the hallowed combination of tomatoes, salami and diesel from Nonna’s garage.
It references a time not only in my life, but in the lives of the old Italians around me. You’d go to the shops, and still see old men sprawled around tables in the food court, sipping espressos in a garishly contrasting throwback to their Italian coffee shops. Then you’d go back to Nonna’s and some variation of beans, broccoli or potato would be simmering on the stove. They’re the kinds of flavours that we always love, cooked until soft, but then served with firm pasta.
A lesson in not overcomplicating things.
For more delicious Italian pasta recipes, grab your copy of Pasta et Al: The Many Shapes Of A Family Tradition by Alec Morris.
Orecchiette with broccoli and potato
Ingredients
- 1 quantity semolina dough
- 400 g 14 oz potato, cubed
- 600 g 1 lb 5 oz broccoli, chopped into small pieces
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 teaspoon dried red chilli flakes
- 100 g 31/2 oz Parmigiano Reggiano, grated, plus extra to serve
- zest of 1 lemon, plus lemon juice to serve
- salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Instructions
- Roll the dough out into long ropes, then cut into pieces around 1 × 1 cm (1⁄2 × 1⁄2 in). Form into orecchiette.
- Place the potato in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil over a medium heat and cook until tender, around 15 minutes. Drain.
- Boil the broccoli in a large pot of salted water for 2–3 minutes. Drain well and then fry with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the chilli in a large pan over
- a high heat for 3–4 minutes, or until the broccoli begins to brown. Blitz in a food processor with the remaining olive oil, cheese and lemon zest. Season to taste.
- Cook the orecchiette in a large pot of salted water for 8–10 minutes. Note that it may take longer if you have made them thicker; always check that there’s
- no raw white dough visible when you bite or cut into one. Drain, retaining a cup of pasta water.
- Stir together the hot pasta, broccoli pesto and potato in a large mixing bowl. Use a little of the retained pasta water to bring it together if too dry.
- Serve with freshly grated cheese and black pepper, and a little squeeze of lemon juice to taste.
Notes
Pici and spaghetti are solid substitutes, as are most eggless pasta shapes. ON INGREDIENTS
Boiling and then frying the broccoli, and even blending it, is a personal preference. For a simpler and lazier method, just boil the broccoli until soft and then stir it directly into the pasta with the remaining ingredients.
Pasta et Al: The Many Shapes Of A Family Tradition by Alec Morris (Hardie Grant, 2023).