After a captivating visit to Paris, we ventured an hour west into the Normandy countryside to explore further and checked into Primard. Opting to drive, we found the journey easy, though taking a train is a feasible option with a pick-up service available from the station.
Set on a sprawling estate of over 40 hectares, Primard offered a chance to encounter sheep, Highland cows, donkeys, and abundant wildlife. The chateau is the heart of two dining experiences: the Michelin-starred gastronomic restaurant, Les Chemins, and the newer, casual bistro, Martin. Both restaurants, a short stroll from the residence through charming gardens, share a kitchen and promise culinary surprises.
Our culinary adventure began with a plant-focused seven-course lunch at Les Chemins, where even the decor echoed the theme, with vegetables like leeks, beets, and onions artfully arranged in vases instead of traditional flowers. The menu subtly included fish, but the emphasis remained on the plants.
Returning to our room, a sudden rainstorm provided the perfect backdrop for a relaxing nap and a soothing bath in the large tub. The chateau’s rooms, decorated with understated elegance rather than flamboyant historical themes, offered calming colors and materials that enhanced the serene ambiance of our stay. Once the storm cleared, we donned complementary French boots and set out to explore the grounds.
Our son delighted in running through the hedged pathways, discovering the various plants and animals. Primard proves ideal for both romantic escapes and family outings. It’s well-equipped for children, with amenities like bikes with baby seats and child-sized gear, and our son was particularly fond of the stuffed sheep gift presented upon our arrival, which he held all the way home.
The estate not only houses animals but also features expansive gardens and streams weaving throughout. Nearby, a barn spa promises relaxation, especially inviting during the summer when the gardens are lush with vegetables.
We had dinner at the new bistro Martin. We started our meal with a creamy asparagus soup and beautifully presented thick asparagus spears topped with edible flowers. For our main courses, we chose the pintade and one of the most succulent pork chops we’ve ever tasted. The pork was expertly cooked, accompanied by ribs and a rich, flavorful sauce that enhanced every bite.
Located just 30 minutes from Giverny, home to Monet’s famed gardens, Primard offers a compelling alternative. While Monet’s gardens are a draw, we found ourselves recommending a more relaxed stay at Primard and exploring the local area, including a must-visit boulangerie in town for fresh bread to enjoy on your journey home.
Note: Primard provided support for the reporting of this story.